Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and visitors equally celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, Unesco recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a select group of global cities and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it becomes part of a global network of more than four hundred cities across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "stands as proof of its profound gastronomic legacy and lively gastronomic culture," according to a official from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of seventy urban centers internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this historic city comes as hardly a shock to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, lively, and eclectic city – the capital of India's biggest state – is now in the global gaze for what has always shaped its heart: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'What's for dinner, the method of preparation' is a continued dialogue from waking up until going to bed in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, evolved, and raised to sublime levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of food experimentation, blending Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was invented to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just showcases local ingredients but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and carts – lesser-known treasures that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and demanding. The cook beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though note that their children do not want to learn the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will motivate more people globally to discover these tales and visit the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.
